Here’s a place that’s literally a hidden gem. Tucked away in Tea Tree Gully, you’ll find Topiary at the entrance to Newman’s Nursery. I only discovered this place though Instagram – seeing photos of some of the beautiful dishes created by young chef/owner Kane Pollard who took over Topiary about five years ago. He’s been having a good time doing his thing – preparing food with the freshest of ingredients, many coming from Topiary’s edible garden and the rest, locally sourced. Kane even bakes his own bread and makes the butter.
It’s such a gorgeous setting – a friend and I met up for a Saturday lunch. There’s an indoor dining room and verandah seating but we were lucky enough to score what I think is the prime position for a nice sunny day – in the courtyard at a table in the wisteria-dappled shade.
The wine list consists of very reasonably priced South Australian numbers. Being the chardonnay freak that I am, I went straight for a glass of the Protero from the Adelaide Hills. Because we’d both been planning to visit Topiary for so long, we decided we had to try as many different things as possible and the best way to do that was by having the Chef’s Tasting Menu, a small version of what’s on offer on Saturday nights. They describe it as a journey that showcases all that they have “picked, sourced, grown, or prepared that week”. And a good price for $65 per person.
You can see how beautiful the food is from the photos – even bread and butter never looked so good. And it all tastes as good as it looks. There’s lots of seasonal fruit used – stone fruits, berries and cherries – I particularly like the sous vide plum – I haven’t seen that before. And we loved the duck and the organic beef from Robe – in fact, the beef was my dish of the day. I even liked the sweet courses as they weren’t overly sweet. Goat milk ice cream with apricot followed by a yoghurt and lavender pannacotta.
A unique setting, attentive service, well priced wines and great food. Topiary is a must-do!